A walk with Buddha: Kinnaur and Spiti Valley

Rain in the Mountains: That day i was taking a stroll on the good old Shimla’s mall road with parents and my younger brother who could barely speak but argue like a professional lawyer. Like always, i was busy in myself watching the skyline and thinking if there are more mountains behind them or is it all the Himalayas we are reading in our textbooks.

The sky turned darker and everybody started looking for a shelter. On the other hand, i was all set to experience my first “Rain in the Mountains”. It rained heavily that day. There is no music as melodious as drumming on the tin roofs and no fragrance sweeter than that of damp soil. During another visit to Shimla, we climbed till “Jakhu Temple”, a temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. It was a short but steep walk along the ridge which offers a magnificent view of the Blue Mountains. I firmly believed then that this is the limit now; I’ve seen all the Himalayas.

Years passed by and my quest to explore the mountains took me much beyond than my previously set limits.

The highway from Shimla to Kaurik is called “Hindustan-Tibet road” as it connects the two countries (Kaurik being the border). My plan was to continue on the highway till the last point and then switch to a state highway leading to the uncharted Spiti Valley.

The Hindustan Tibet Road-Dubey Ji

The monsoon arrived earlier than expected and Ambala-Chandigarh route was already flooded in the first week of July. I was waiting for this expedition since a long time and now, i was wound up enough to overlook all the warnings of landslides and floods.

Day One: (Shimla - Sangla) After a night long drive and a hearty breakfast near Shimla, we (Me, bunty and Dubey Ji) continued towards Kufri (2290 m) and then Narkanda (2708 m). Narkanda is a beautiful town which now attracts more tourists than ever, who come here in search of peace which no longer exists in bigger hill stations. We had our much required pepper tea in Narkanda main bazaar which was energizing enough to keep us elated till our destination for the Day-Sangla Valley.

The road now descends some 35 kms till it comes parallel to River Satluj which we were to tag along for three more days. After crossing the small towns of Rampur and Jeori, we entered the district of Kinnaur. While the landscape was slowly changing to rocky and loftier hills, the road condition changed abruptly. It seems that the government cares for the district only where the officials live; in case of Himachal, it is Shimla.

Roads in Kinnaur

The tough rock-strewn mountains in Kinnaur are carved beautifully for the highway adding to the glory of the environs which includes plenty of big and small waterfalls.

After crossing the mud-spattered road besides the Wangtoo hydroelectric Dam, we reached Karcham from where we were to take a detour to Sangla Valley. The road to Sangla is along the river Baspa which meets Satluj at karcham. It is a narrow but well maintained route which took us to the town of Sangla (2700 m) at around 6.30 pm.

My car through one of the streams on the road

 
Day Two: (Sangla-Chitkul-Reckong Peo-Kalpa)

We started early today to reach one of the most picturesque motorable villages of India, Chhitkul (3450 m). The drive was upstream Baspa River though lush green forests, waterfalls and some small tributaries on the road itself. We were welcomed by a signboard which read “Hinduatan ka Akhri Dhaba”. Chhitkul is the last hamlet on the Indian side of Baspa valley and a few kilometers of trek would lead you to Tibet.

Chhitkul

The Glacial peaks were standing right next to the banks of the river which were telling us that its origin is right here. It was 1.00 pm when we left for Kalpa, the ancient capital of Kinnaur. The city reflects the true Kinnauri culture. Surrounded by Kinnaur Kailash Range (a Sacred Mountain), Kalpa (2960 m) is a tiny city with a Buddhist Monastry and a Hindu Temple sharing walls and the population here is equally divided in the two religions. We offered our homage to both the shrines and most importantly to the Kinnaur Kailash Parvat itself. I slept early but was soon interrupted by Bunty’s shouts “Spain has won the World Cup”. I was double annoyed now as i was supporting the Netherlands.

Kinnaur Kailash range from Kalpa

Day Three: (Kalpa-Nako)

We woke up in leisure, had our morning tea in Reckong Peo and refueled our car to tank full as there was no petrol pump for the next 200 kms.

Kalpa

As soon as we left Reckong Peo, we encountered a huge waterfall right on the Hinsdustan-Tibet Road. This is probably the beginning of the Cold desert of Spiti. The highway was now lonely with no vehicle at all for hours of drive. Villagers commute here by asking for a lift from the intermittent transport on the highway (We too were the lift providers to many). After crossing Pooh, we reached the confluence of Satluj and Spiti rivers. The roar of the waters was no less than that of a rocky beach and now the road continues along the Spiti instead of Satluj.

Nako Village

A narrow, deserted, steep zig zag road lifted us from the Spiti banks and led us to reach the dazzling village of Nako (3662 m).

No electricity, no refueling station, no telephone line and no mobile signal; just a high altitude lake with an ancient monastery and Buddhist flags fluttering on every single house. The village made us sleep early at 6.30 pm, as it was a complete blackout. Nevertheless, the sleep was essential for the next morning. We had to start very early so that we can cross the infamous Malling Nallah before its water level increases in afternoon due to snowmelt. 

Into the Spiti

Day Four: (Nako-Kaza)


We could safely cross the Malling (though the water level was still over a foot) at 6 in the morning. As we crossed Chango, we soon were in middle of a small Army cantonment and we soon realized that we are very close to the border now. Although we did not get the permission to go closer to the border, an officer pointed towards the hill sitting next to us- This is Tibet, what will you gain if you go a few steps ahead?

Tabo Gompa

It was the end of Hindustan-Tibet road and we switched to the state highway. 
The valley suddenly unfolded for the magical town of Tabo (3280 m). By now, all the trees are vanished forming a complete cold desert and the inhabitants were completely Buddhists; primarily from the neighboring Tibet. Tabo Monastery dates back to 996 CE (some 1015 years old) but still in a good form. Kaza, the headquarters of Spiti was some 50 bumpy kilometers when we were stopped by two tourists from Israel (Shay and Tal) who sought a lift till Kaza. We happily agreed and discussions of all sorts erupted in our otherwise quite car. They were completely in love with mother India and could not stop praising her every now and then.

We finally reached Kaza (3800 m) and started our hunt for the lodge. While going for a bargain, i asked our non native friends to not to come along so that the hotel owner doesn’t come up with inflated prices. I proudly came back after a bargain, 500 Rs. But they’re charging us 200, said Shay. I shouted at the hotel owner; Why such a discrimination? They are our guests you know.

Shay and Tal

Day Five: (Kaza - Key Gompa - Kibber - Sumdo)

Would you like to come for a visit to Key Gompa and the highest village in World? I asked Shay and Tal. After hearty breakfast of Aloo Parathas and tea, we were again seated in the car to reach the highest motorable village in the world, Kibber (4270 m). A small stroll in Kibber made us realize that we are actually at the highest village. We were breathless like dogs; thanks to the limited oxygen of a high altitude village with no trees at all. A few minutes of drive from kibber took us to Key Gompa (4166 m), the principal monastery of Spiti valley and a religious training centre for Lamas. It is a pyramid shaped structure with Spiti River flowing right next to it; picturesque!!

Kibber Village

The lamas were quite hospitable who took us to a detailed tour of the monastery complex and served us with hot butter tea, all for free.

Soon we were sitting in the Kaza main bazaar and parted the ways with our Israeli friends after a small Jalebi treat.

Our original plan was to descend to Manali through Rohtang Pass but according to a local tour operator, there was a severe landslide on this route and the vehicular traffic was blocked since last two days. So we decided to return by the same route. But this time, we halted in Sumdo (3474 m), a two-household village on the banks of Spiti, some 120 kms from Kaza. Thankfully we got shelter in one of them.

Key Gompa

Day 6 (Sumdo - Sarahan)

It was a silent drive. We reached Sarahan at 3.00 pm and found a good lodge for the night stay. After paying our homage to the Bhimkali Temple, we decided to take a walk in the village when we unintentionally reached a beautiful football field surrounded by lush Green hills.

Kinnaur is known as the Apple Orchard of India. There were plenty of ripe, red apples around but despite all our efforts, we got away only with two.

Football field- Sarahan

Day 7 (Sarahan - Shimla)

We again entered the “good road” section of Himachal and the summer capital of India during the british reign, Shimla. After days in one of the least peopled places in India, Shimla seemed to be overly populated. But how could i be deprived of the Mall Road which refreshes my childhood memories? The walk was just as delightful.

A Walk with Buddha: Pangi Valley and Lahaul

The second half of the “Walk with Buddha in Himachal” awaits me now. It is one of the most unexplored circuits in India which connects the Pangi valley of Chamba with Lahaul of Lahaul-Spiti. 

Mall Road- Shimla